2-1/2 to 3 lb boned loin of pork
4 tablespoons fresh rosemary, roughly chopped
1 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup sugar
½ cup and 2 tablespoons Meyer lemon juice
3 tablespoons good brandy or cognac
Carefully cut any strings tying the roast and unroll or (depending how its cut) separate into halves. Slash the meat at intervals and rub liberally with rosemary. Place in a nonreactive container big enough for the meat to lie flat. Pour the wine over the meat and sprinkle with the remaining rosemary. Let marinate for at least 1-1/2 hours, turning several times.
Preheat oven to 450 degrees F.
Remove the meat from the marinade, pat very dry, and reassemble into the original roll shape (the grooves from the original string will be easy to follow). Place the meat in a roasting pan and roast for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and roast for 30 minutes. Baste the meat with any juices that accumulate in the pan, and roast for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, combine the sugar, half cup lemon juice and the brandy; stir to dissolve the sugar.
Discard any fat in the roasting pan, then spoon the lemon-brandy mixture over the meat. Roast for 30 minutes longer, basting the meat with the glaze every 5 to 10 minutes. The glaze will become thick and the roast a glossy brown.
Transfer the roast to a cutting board, reserving accumulated pan juices. Let the meat set for 10 minutes before carving.
Add remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice to the reserved pan juices; pour into a sauceboat and pass at the table.
Serves 6 to 8.